Wine Reviews & Ratings by Ronn Wiegand

High-Caliber Chardonnay & Pinot Noir Wine

As we enter the holiday season, I thought it time to up the caliber of my wine recommendations, to put the focus on some truly outstanding wines, which are somewhat costlier than those I have recently recommended. For many, they are special occasion wines, and they can help make those occasions that much more special, I believe.

Some of the wine tasting
recommendations I would suggest would be to compare at least two wines from the same varietal at the same time, which tends to put stylistic nuances into perspective, and makes them easier to isolate.

For example, you might compare:

• the Ramey Russian River Chardonnay with the Ritchie Vineyard, or the Carneros Chardonnay with the Hyde Vineyard version—in both pairs noting the extra depth, richness of flavor, and character of the single vineyard bottlings;
   
• the Ramey Carneros Chardonnay with that from Vine Cliff, noting the fuller body and greater complexity of the latter;
   
• the King Estate Pinot Noir with one of the Morgan bottlings, noting the relative delicacy and subtlety of the former, and the depth and richness of the latter;
   
  
• the Davis Family and Dutton Estate Syrahs, both from the Russian River Valley, but in strikingly different styles; the former in a fuller, oakier style, and the latter in a slightly lighter, crisper, fruitier/spicier style.
  

California Chardonnay Recommendations

Ramey

• 2004 CHARDONNAY, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, $38-$40
• 2004 CHARDONNAY, CARNEROS, $38-$40
• 2003 CHARDONNAY, RITCHIE VINEYARD, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, $55-$60
• 2003 CHARDONNAY, HUDSON VINEYARD, CARNEROS, $55-$60
• 2003 CHARDONNAY, HYDE VINEYARD, CARNEROS, $55-$60

Ramey is producing a range of fine Chardonnays that are excellent values for their respective tiers. The RRV bottling is a firm, full bodied, well balanced Chardonnay, that is crisp and long on the palate, and tastes of lemon peel, peach, toast, roasted nut, and lime. 2,870 cases. The Carneros bottling is mildly fleshier, with good depth and balance, and a long aftertaste, reminiscent of baked pear, peach, lemon, toast, and vanilla. 1,800 cases. The single vineyard wines display more weight and personality. The Ritchie is full bodied and richly flavored; a fine Chardonnay, with subtle, complex character (roasted nut, apple, lemon peel, pineapple), crisp acidity, and a long finish. 600 cases. The Hudson is a full styled Chardonnay, that is round and long on the palate, with subtle, rich character, firm acidity, and a long aftertaste, tasting of roasted nut, apple, honey, lime, and toast. 830 cases. The Hyde is exceptional: fleshy and rich, with depth of fruit, evident complexity, and a very long finish. It tastes of pear, apple, toast, roasted nut, lemon peel, creme brulee, and vanilla. 1,800 cases. Drink through 2008.

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Vine Cliff
2004 CHARDONNAY
LOS CARNEROS
$38-$40

Very fine Chardonnay: velvety in texture, full bodied, richly flavored, and extremely long on the finish. Superb. It tastes of creme caramel, roasted nut, green apple, lemon peel, and pink grapefruit. 1,800 cases. Drink through 2008.

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Pinot Noir Wine Recommendations

Fort Ross

• 2002 PINOT NOIR, FORT ROSS VINEYARD, SONOMA COAST, $38-$40
• 2002 PINOT NOIR, FORT ROSS VINEYARD, RESERVE, SONOMA COAST, $50-$55

Uniquely styled wines, from this coastal vineyard. The standard bottling is aromatic and very distinct; a full bodied, finely flavored wine, with a crisp, long finish. It tastes of blueberry, cherry, red currant, toast, ginger, and vanilla. 288 cases. The Reserve is fine and complex in style; a full bodied, crisp Pinot Noir, with a long, persistent finish. It tastes of cherry, blueberry, tobacco, toast, and vanilla. Not far in style from fine red Burgundy. 328 cases. Both are unfined & unfiltered Drink through 2009.

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King Estate
2003 PINOT NOIR
DOMAINE, OREGON
$48-$50

Fine quality: a stylish, full bodied, supple Pinot Noir, with medium richness, good balance, and a long finish, tasting of blueberry, cherry, violet, toast, and vanilla. Best Pinot Noir I've tasted from this winery. 400 cases. Drink through 2008.

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Lost Canyon
2004 PINOT NOIR
MORELLI LANE VINEYARD
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
$40-$43

Full bodied and ripely flavored, this is a fairly rich wine, with plum, vanilla, kola nut, toast, and spicy oak aromas/flavors. Long aftertaste. 410 cases. Drink through 2008.

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Morgan – Santa Lucia Highlands
* 2004 PINOT NOIR, GARYS' VINEYARD, $43-$45
* 2004 PINOT NOIR, ROSELLA'S VINEYARD, $45-$49
* 2004 PINOT NOIR, DOUBLE L VINEYARD, $45-$49

Morgan continues to excel with single vineyard Pinots. The Garys’ is fleshy and full bodied, with rich fruitiness, complex character, and a long finish. It tastes of plum, clove, nutmeg, roasted nut, vanilla, and baked cherry. 300 cases. The Rosella’s is firm, full bodied, and richly flavored; a wine with blueberry, cherry, clove, toast, and cedar aromas/flavors. Long aftertaste. 400 cases. The Double L is exceptional: velvety in texture, complex in flavor, and full bodied, with excellent balance and length. It tastes of blueberry, strawberry, toast, spicy oak, and roasted nut. 650 cases. Drink through 2008.

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ZD Wines
2004 PINOT NOIR RESERVE
CARNEROS
$60-$65

Excellent: supple, full bodied, richly flavored, and well balanced; a Pinot Noir with intense fruitiness (plum, blueberry), with overtones of clove, toast, tobacco, and oak. Long aftertaste. The best Pinot Noir I’ve tasted from ZD. 750 cases. Drink through 2008.

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California Syrah Wine Recommendations

Davis Family Vineyard
2004 SYRAH, GUYZER BLOCK
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
$40-$42

Fleshy and complex in style, this is a rich, lightly oaky Syrah, tasting of kola nut, cedar, clove, toast, and boysenberry. Has some power to it. Excellent. Drink through 2007.

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Dutton Estate
2003 SYRAH, GAIL ANN'S VINEYARD
DUTTON RANCH, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
$35-$38

Fleshy, medium rich, complex in flavor, and long on the palate; a Syrah with northern Rhone character and structure, tasting of black currant, black cherry, aniseed, toast, pepper, and spicy oak. Wonderful version of the varietal. 187 cases. Drink through 2007.

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-- RW

Related Wine Resources If you enjoyed these wine reviews, you might also find the following wine resources to be useful: October '06: Red Wines for Autumn Glossary of Wine Terms Types of Wine Around the World How to Serve Wine Choosing Wine Glasses